Tuesday, September 13, 2016
The following morning Jason had a meeting so Emma, the boys and I walked to Zoe's Bakery for more delicious treats. When we got back to the docks I ran into my old high school friend and we spent an hour catching up on life after high school. At noon, we fired up the engine, waved good-bye to friends and pushed off the dock heading back out to Barkley Sound. It was so fun to watch Emma grin ear to ear as she experienced her first taste of life on a sailboat.
We anchored at Clark Island and promptly dropped the kayaks in the water so we could paddle to shore. At this point I am going to let you read what Emma wrote about our hike on Clark Island because I can't even come close to capturing the feelings she so beautifully and poetically portrays. I love seeing these magical experiences through fresh eyes. We've hiked on so many islands in so many places, and though we love it, sometimes we take things for granted or as "just normal." Thank you Emma for reminding us of the magic of the world that we are so blessed to explore and spend so much time in.
The following day we paddled over to Benson Island. After visiting the statue of the First Man of the Broken Group and reading his story we hiked through the mossy forest to the other side of the island to check out a blowhole. The tide was low so we only heard a faint whoomf as water gently flowed in and out. As we scrambled across the rocks we peered into tiny tide pools scattered among the nooks and crannies in the craggy shore. In one of the pools I found a treasure, a rock with a perfect circle "drilled" into it, that I decided to leave with the First Man. I thought it would make a nice addition to his collection of treasures other visitors had left for him. When we got back across the island I discovered that the stone fit perfectly in his clenched hand almost like they were made for each other. Must have been destiny :).
Click here for photos.
Friday, September 9, 2016
Our original plan was to stay in Barkley Sound four nights but after night three of rain we threw in the towel and headed to Ucluelet where we could fix our heater. The entire month of June was cold and after so many weeks of rain and cool weather we were desperate to get the boat dried out so we were happy to raft up to another boat (which we found out later was the boat of the guy who warned us off the public docks in Tofino!) on a dock so we could plug in and set out our dehumidifier. What a relief! After weeks of damp everything we were finally able to dry out.
It rained through our first day in Ucluelet which gave me a chance to get all of our laundry done while Jason and Isaac fixed the heater. They have super funny stories to tell about maneuvering our forty pound hot water tank in the tiny space below the cockpit. As their giggles evolved into laughter they slowly lost strength while the water tank fell, squished Isaac and caused even more laughter. There was some doubt as to whether they'd ever make it out alive.
That night Jason and I went on a date but first we walked over to a wood-fired pizza place and grabbed a pizza for the boys to eat while we were gone. After three months without a date, we treated ourselves to dinner at Norwoods where we both consumed a deliciously prepared piece of fish. As good as it was it couldn't top the uber-delicious halibut braised in butter and white wine over carrots accompanied by a boat-made loaf of rustic bread I had made just a few nights earlier in the boat. I miss that dinner. Sigh. I digress. We had a lovely date and it was so nice to spend some relaxing, uninterrupted time together. When our waitress found out we were from Montana she let us know that the bartender was from Montana and she would send her over. When we met we discovered that we graduated from the same high school in the same year. It was crazy....it really highlighted what small world we live in and given that I had no recollection of her, it confirmed that my memory really does suck.
The following day brought sunshine so we pulled apart the boat. All of our wet clothes came out of the shower and every drippy item was pulled out of the moldy sail locker. The decks were strewn with an explosion of sails and foulies everywhere. I busted out the vinegar and mold killer and set to work wiping away all of the mold we had carefully cultivated over the last soggy month. Though I had been wiping the boys' cabin clean on a weekly basis the wet weather was an inviting climate for mold to quickly grow back. I took this opportunity, with the help of the sunshine and dehumidifier, to at long last conquer all the mold I could find and allow those spots to dry completely before we piled everything back into the boat. While everything dried out in the sunshine we headed into Ucluelet for a yummy lunch at a sweet organic bakery before hiking out to a light house where we had splendid views over the graveyard of the pacific. When we got back we piled all of our now dry things back into our dry boat. I can't tell you how good it felt to once again have a dry, mold-free, clean boat.
The following day brought more heavy rain as we anxiously awaited the arrival of our niece, otherwise known as Emma 2. Emma 2 is another adventurous soul who eagerly jumped at our offer to bring her onto the boat. We knew it wouldn't be easy given that we were circumnavigating Vancouver Island which can make timing tricky and uncertain, but as luck and weather would have it, we made it to Ucluelet before her arrival. We had a plan all laid out for her. She would fly into Victoria airport, take a taxi to the bus station and hop onto a bus that would drive her the five hours to Ucluelet. What could go wrong? Turns out, all it took is one piece of the cog to fail and the rest of the plan collapsed. I received a text from Emma in the morning informing us that her flight out of Boise had been delayed which meant that she would miss her flight out of Seattle which would delay her arrival into Victoria which would cause her to miss the final bus to Ucluelet. Warg. We immediately hopped onto the Internet to try to fix the problem. Our first thought was seaplane. After thorough exploration we determined this was cost prohibitively and timing-wise impossible. Taxi? Also super expensive. Rent a car? Oops...she left her driver's license in Iceland (we told you she was adventurous!) Finally after all options had been explored over the course of the day, as she inched her way ever-closer in our direction, we decided she should stay in a hotel in Victoria and catch the morning bus. I happened to be in an organic grocery when we decided this so I spent a creepy amount of time in the tiny nook-and-cranny store booking a hotel for her. The cashier kept checking on me in the back to make sure I wasn't looting him...perhaps he sensed my saltiness and thought I was a savvy cyber-pirate since my nose was buried in my phone making the hotel reservation? I did spend an excessive amount of time there so I can understand his concern.
With a final plan laid out I slogged through the pouring rain to find the restaurant where the boys were eating so we could head back to the boat. We got back to the boat about a half an hour before Emma's plane was to land in Victoria when Jason heard back from a person he had left a message with earlier in the day. His name was Keith and he was a tour guide for cruise ship passengers and he was up for the adventure of picking Emma up at the airport and driving her to Ucluelet. I quickly texted Emma letting her know plans had changed, yet again, and Keith who would be picking her up. He could be recognized because he was wearing a purple shirt that says Kiki Shuffle. My response to this was "What?!? Seriously. Kiki Shuffle? Who is this guy?" Turns out he gets wonderful reviews on Yelp and he was for real. At this point I will start to call Keith, Super Keith. Super Keith dropped off his grandchild he was babysitting, hopped into his van and sped away to the airport. When he arrived he couldn't find Emma anywhere. At this point I had received a text from her that her bag had been lost. So Super Keith wandered through the airport with me on the phone trying to locate Emma. Emma was still behind customs so it took a while. Meanwhile poor Emma was cycling between the Delta and Alaska Air desks trying to locate her bag. On our end we realized that if she left the airport without her bag she wouldn't see it again until we dropped her back at the airport in nine days. Luckily Emma and I are roughly the same size so I suggested she could borrow clothes from me and we could buy her some undies when she got to Ucluelet. Emma was just about to accept this as her fate when her bag miraculously appeared on the next flight. At long last a worried Super Keith and Emma met in the airport and after showing her all kinds of official documentation as proof of being a tour guide they hopped into his van and away they sped. During her five hour drive we were lucky enough to spend time visiting with another couple I had met while I was doing laundry way back in Port McNeill. At long last our paths had crossed again so we spent a lovely evening aboard their Valiant 42 sharing stories of adventures circumnavigating Vancouver Island. After leaving her home in Boise at 7am, being put through the air-travel wringer, Emma finally arrived in Ucluelet at 9pm still smiling where we welcomed her with open arms. Welcome to the boat Emma! Thank you Super Keith of Kiki Shuffle for coming to the rescue and delivering Emma safe and sound!
Click here for photos.
Sunday, September 4, 2016
I miss heat. And being dry. We spent three rainy, shivery nights in Effingham Bay. With weather like this I really miss having a heater. When the rain sets in everything is wet. My feet are always wet. And cold. At the end of the day we peel off our damp clothes, put on our damp jammies, and climb into our damp beds under our damp bedding.
Actually our early morning sail from Tofino to Barkley Sound was gorgeous. We arrived in Effingham Bay early enough that we were the second boat in the anchorage. I packed a lunch and we hopped into the kayaks to paddle the couple of miles over to Dicebox Island to check out some sea caves but first we landed on an inviting beach to eat lunch and explore. I found some nodding onions to gather and some yummy thimble berries to munch on. Next we paddled over to the sea caves for a look-see inside.
Back at the boat we soaked up the last bit of nice weather as we watched boat after boat arrive. There was a warning for strong winds so everyone decided that Effingham was the safest and most comfortable place to sit out the storm. A dinghy from a neighboring boat stopped by telling us that they were headed out to fish and asked if we'd like any. Never ones to turn down fish we accepted. A short while later they arrived back and asked us to hand over a bucket. They then proceeded to fill the bucket with five fish! After many thanks Jason decided that we needed to bring the bucket down into the boat to keep them out of the sun since we were about to eat dinner. He set the bucket o' fish on the counter when one of them started flipping. Me, being a recovering vegetarian, had a little freak-out session about this. I don't want to sound ungrateful or unthankful but I was super unhappy because I thought we were getting a bucket o' dead fish, not a bucket o' suffering-slowly-to-death fish. Jason grabbed the bucket and started up the companionway when a fish flipped right out of the bucket and flopped around on all of our shoes at the entrance of our boat :(. At this point he grabbed one of Aaron's sticks and clubbed it to death :(:(:(. This may get me kicked out of the sailing sisterhood but the fish violence made me sad, sad, sad. After dinner Jason headed to the cockpit with iPad in hand to try to fillet his first five ocean fish. Meanwhile the boys and I stayed below, away from the carnage, and played a card game. After an hour or so he was victorious and we slid four quart bags of fresh fish into our fridge. Nicely done.
The next day it down-poured all day so we nestled into the boat along with the dozen other boats that had joined us in the anchorage. We spent the day playing a board game and making chocolate chip cookies.
The following day brought lighter rain so we pulled on all of our foulies and ventured out. We hiked across the island to a lovely beach and a sea cave we had visited last year. The rocks on the way there were slipperier-than-all-get-out but it we made there and back with our lives. On the way through the forest we came across the biggest red huckleberry bush I have ever seen so we stopped to snack on as many of them as we could reach with big smiles on our faces.
Click here for photos.
Sunday, August 21, 2016
After Hot Springs Cove we headed up inlet to Megin River. A rainy evening gave way to a sunny morning which we were super happy about since our plan for the day was to paddle up the river. After a quick session of yoga where I soaked up as much sun as I possibly could we were approached by a First Nations boat. They gathered a fee for anchoring in their little harbor and told us about their teenage nieces and nephews on shore who were spending a few weeks camping and living off of the land of their ancestors as a spiritual cleansing. What a super cool thing.
After I packed up lunch we paddled through a narrow rock lined cut and up the crystal-clear river through old growth until we hit a big sandbar where we got out to eat our lunch and take in the gorgeous scenery. Having seen so little of the sun we really relished any time we got to bask in its glory so this was a wondrous little outing.
In the afternoon we set out down inlet to Ahousat which we had read had a little man-made "warm" springs. We found the anchorage a little tricky to anchor in and ended up dragging up the anchor to change our location. The following morning we awoke to more cloudy, cool weather but we paddled to shore anyway to find the fabled "warm" springs. When we got there I quickly wimped out of a dip in the "warm" springs when I felt the water temp. I stayed bundled up while all three boys stripped down and bravely took a dip while I snapped photos.
We had a tide to catch so we set sail after lunch for Tofino. We had the craziest, coolest sail of the entire trip. We wound through all kinds of twists and turns and each time the wind shifted in our favor. We sailed right up to the mouth of Tofino Inlet on a single tack and then things got really crazy. Tofino is notorious for being not-at-all sailor friendly but we decided to give it a try anyway. The current rips through the narrow inlet making docking and undocking incredibly challenging. We decided to tie up at the public dock where the wharfinger I talked to on the phone said that there was one spot available and there should probably be enough depth for our boat. I had a bad feeling about this. I had a nagging feeling we should tie up to the fishing resort docks where a nice lady with a proper English accent had told me they had plenty of room and, of course, there would be enough water under our keel. Anyway, we first landed on the wrong part of the public dock (because I had quickly forgotten what the wharfinger had said about what was available.) It took three people to help pull the boat against the current onto the dock. After we were tied up we were informed that we needed to move to the end of the dock so Isaac, Jason and I untied Marinero (at this point I silently panicked about our decision to leave Aaron on the boat just in case we lost control of her) for Tofino Docking Attempt Number Two (as if the first one wasn't difficult enough) and started walking her back down the dock. Phew! We made it into our spot and after we were safely tied up, again, a man came wandering down the dock and started up a conversation. He told us he has a sailboat, but he keeps it in Ucleulet because Tofino is so difficult. Eventually I asked him if he knew what the depth was here. After some puzzling we all realized that the wharfinger's half-hearted reassurances about depth here had no factual grounding (bad pun). We realized that we would in fact ground and be sitting on our keel with three feet of us out of water once the tide dropped to low. Our new friend then told us a story about how a friend of his had that exact thing happen to him on these docks. Curse you, Shady Wharfinger! Thank you Dear Nameless Stranger for your advice and warning. Time for Tofino Docking Attempt Number Three. As we untied Marinero we saw the one and only Irish Lads pull into a nearby dock. I'm positive they don't ever have to worry about depth.
Next we headed to the fishing resort with the nice woman with the proper English accent and tied up for the next couple of nights. The nice woman with the proper English accent met us on the dock and helped pull us in as the current ripped by us, literally. Certain times of the day the current was so strong we watched standing waves and tide rips form next to Marinero and boil through the docks. We felt relieved to be tied up to a dock where we wouldn't ground so now it was time to explore the town which basically equals a quest to find all the yummy food and consume as much as possible as quickly as stomachs would allow.
It was super strange to step back into real civilization. The surfing town of Tofino is a major vacation destination so the streets were choked with your classic ice cream-slurping tourists. The first night we ate at the Wolf in the Fog which was good but didn't live up to all of the hype. We had grown used to quiet anchorages so it was a bit of an adjustment being tied up to a dock next to bar where the patrons' rowdy yells kept us awake late into the night, or maybe it was early morning.
The next day (after lunch at a fish market which was meh) I made a major grocery run while the boys wandered from coffee shop to coffee shop looking for decent wifi. They never found any....apparently there is no good wifi to be had in Tofino. When I was checking out at the grocery store the clerk plopped a lottery scratch ticket in front of me and stared at me blankly. I stared back at her bewildered. She told me to scratch it so I could save on my groceries. I was about to pass it to the person behind me but they insisted I do it. I scratched it and It ended up taking 30% off my bill saving me $67 which I found amazing. The person behind me got 5% off her drink saving her about $0.03. I guess it was my lucky day. Like I said I had a lot of groceries so I needed help carrying them but I got tired of waiting for the boys so I strapped one bag to my shoulder bag and heaved the other four bags onto my shoulders. I only made it two blocks before my shoulders felt like they were going to tear out of my body and like I had a compressed spine. I cried uncle and set all of the bags down in the middle of the block and worked on my patience skills. Luckily I didn't have to wait long and I was thankful to have the help lugging all of those groceries the mile back to the boat. We got back just in time to turn around and head back out to dinner at a Japanese comfort food restaurant. Sorry Wolf in the Fog, Kuma Tofino kicked your butt with its amazing grilled rice balls. Yum! We left the restaurant completely stuffed and settled back into the boat for another low-sleep night. It was nice being back in civilization to indulge in way too much food and restock our fridge but we were ready to head back to the wilderness.
Click here for photos.
Friday, August 12, 2016
We woke up early the next morning for our hop around Estavan Point. We had a perfect beam reach until we rounded the point and then motored into Hot Springs Cove.
Arriving in Hot Springs Cove, we feel like we have finally re-entered civilization again. Hot Springs is home to a paradisiacal (you might have already guessed this) hot springs that bubbles up from the forest floor, tumbles down a cliff and then cascades through a series of rock pools before meeting the ocean. The low pools are a variety of temperatures depending on the state of the tide so you can choose a pool with a temperature comfortable to you and then dip between hot and cold. For good reason, Hot Springs is a major tourist destination so there are tour boats and sea planes from nearby Tofino coming and going all day long. We like to tie up to the dock so we can watch all of the normal folk arrive to take a break from their normal lives and spend a few hours in wildness. Here, we also re-entered cell service, our first taste of cell in two weeks so we took the opportunity to call our parents to tell them we were still alive and, of course, catch up on some work. Like I said, full-blown civilization.
On our first afternoon there we walked the picturesque boardwalk (we still haven't joined the legions of other boaters and taken the time to carve the name of our boat into a board there) to the famous hot springs and joined the crowds of tourists in the pools. It's always interesting to talk to other people there and hear their stories. We talked with a woman from Ireland and I was lucky enough to have my back turned to a German man who got naked as he changed out of his wet clothes...others in my party were not so lucky. As they looked up to say something to me all they saw was a big, naked, German butt behind me that rendered them speechless. He was kind enough to hold up a towel for his wife so she could do the same.
The following day was super rainy so we spent the day in the boat resting and playing a board game. We noticed a very tiny, very soggy open boat tie up to the other side of the dock. After dinner Jason saw a man sitting next to the boat looking cold and wet. I thought he must be from the tiny boat so I stuck my head and asked if he'd like a cup of tea to warm up. He declined and said he was just waiting for a sea plane. He said the guys from the tiny boat were inside eating dinner. Hearing this conversation, we saw two heads pop out so we stepped out of our boat to say hello and thus began our first meeting of the "Irish Lads" as they came to be known. Originally from Ireland they were now hanging out in Canada and sailing as much as they could before their visas ran out. The Irish Lads had come around Cape Scott in their teeny, tiny boat, and the Dreaded Brooks Peninsula and now Estavan Point. I couldn't believe they were circumnavigating Vancouver Island in that boat. I thought back to all of the times that I had felt terrified and felt like a total wimp as I glanced back at our uber-stout, seaworthy Marinero. They had gotten quite the pummeling going around Estavan that day but now they were warm and dry and happy and didn't need a cup of tea after all.
That evening we walked back to the hot springs for the solo experience. All the tourists filter out of the hot springs by 7:00 so after that you can have the whole place to yourself. We soaked in the lower pools, dipping ourselves between hot and cold as the weather lightly misted us. We watched fog slowly roll in and soon the eerie high-pitched whistle of a foghorn sounded in the distance which totally added to the moody feel of the evening. Happy and relaxed we plodded back along the boardwalk to our boat.
Click here for photos.
Tuesday, August 9, 2016
We left the old lumber town of Tahsis the next morning anxious to get back into wilderness. We expected winds to be flowing up Esperanza Inlet but we really didn't hit any wind until the very end when our destination was in sight. We raised sails anyway and beat into the wind for the last short mile or so. We pulled into Friendly Cove just as the coastal freighter, the U-Chuck, was pulling out as we waved to our buddy boat friends as we headed for a free space on the dock. We remembered from last year to tie up with our bow facing out otherwise the swells rolling in from the open ocean slap us in the butt all night long making our stay a bit uncomfortable. Unfortunately our memory had failed us on how loud and squeaky the dock was and as we laid awake that night we wished we had dropped our anchor instead.
Once we were tied up to the dock we didn't waste any time. We had been long anticipating our arrival back in Friendly Cove with dreams of bouldering on the beach in mind so we grabbed our climbing shoes and headed for the beach. Friendly Cove has one of our favorite beaches of all time. The rocks on the beach look like they have been put through a rock polisher and its the perfect place to lounge around soaking up the warmth of the rocks and spend hours searching through its perfectly polished, shiny pebbles. We always come back to the boat with our shorts hanging low from our bulging pockets full of treasure. This time we eagerly arrived and crammed our feet into our climbing shoes and hopped onto the beach boulders. We created routes and took turns climbing them. In between climbs I lounged around on the beach digging through the polished pebbles with Aaron. We climbed until our muscles ached. As we we leaving Aaron dropped his favorite rock on the beach. Jason and Isaac forged ahead to the light house while Aaron and I searched through millions of pebbles to find his favorite rock. Just as we were about to give up he realized he was holding it in his hand all along. I'm glad I'm not the only one who does things like that. We had a lovely, meandering walk back up the beach past the welcoming man statue with his arms outstretched to the sea and back up to the trail that led us back to our boat.
Click here for photos.